Kapselkollektsiooni kleidimudelite väljatöötamine Supermoon OÜ-le

Antud lõputöö tulemusena on väljatöötatud 2020 kapselkollektsiooni kahe kleidi mudelid koostöös disainer Marit Ilisoniga ettevõttele Supermoon OÜ. Väljatöötatud kleitide mudelid on DR62 ja DR63. Tegemist on baasmudelitega, mis on valminud unifitseerimise põhimõtteid järgides. Mudelite piha esi- ja seljaosa detaile, seelikuosa ja varrukaid on võimalik omavahel eriilmeliste mudelite saavutamiseks kombineerida. Lisaks antud töös väljatöötatud baasmudelitele on võimalik detaile omavahel kombineerides luua kuus erinevat mudelite variatsiooni. Mudelite väljatöötamine sai alguse Marit Ilisoni kollektsiooni visanditest, millelt on välja valitud töö jätkamiseks kahe kleidi mudelid. Vastavalt mudelite tegumoele on valitud põhilõike konstrueerimiseks M.Müller & Sohn metoodikat järgides naiste õlale toetuva kleidi ja üheosalise varruka põhilõige. Põhilõige on konstrueeritud käsitsi suurusnumbrile IT42, mille puhul vastab rinnaümbermõõdule 92 cm. Lõigete istuvuse kontrollimiseks on läbi viidud esimene maketi proov. Pärast seda on lõiked digitaliseeritud arvutiprogrammis Optitex PDS 18, kus põhilõike baasil on modelleeritud unifitseerimise aluseks olevad baaslõiked. Teine maketi proov toimus baaslõigete istuvuse ja soovitud tegumoe saavutamise kontrollimiseks. Valminud mudelite lekaalidele on teostatud progammis Optitex PDS 18 tehniline paljundus, mille tulemusena valmisid baassuurusest IT42 suuremad ja väiksemad suurusnumbrid IT38-IT48. Suurustele IT38 ja IT48 keskmise kangakulu leidmiseks ühe toote kohta on tehtud kombineeritud paigutused põhimaterjalidele ja liimiriietele. Toodete õmblemiseks on kasutatud põhikangana digitrükitud 100% viskooskreppi, millel on Marit Ilisoni disainitud muster. Praegu turul olevatest kangatrüki tehnoloogiatest on digitrükk kõige loodust säästvam, tekitades oma protsessis vähem jäätmeid ja kasutades vähem vett kui näiteks siiditrükk või rotatsioonitrükk. Kangas on pärit Marit Ilisoni loovateljee arhiivist 2017 kollektsiooni II ülejäägina. Selline olemasolevate materjalide ärakasutamine on üks jätkusuutlikkest põhimõtetest, mille järgi Marit Ilisoni loovateljees tööd tehakse. Töö raames valmis õmmeldud kleidimudelid DR62 ja DR63 on ettevõttele esiknäidised ning nende puhul tehakse veel edasist tootearendust. Uute kleidimudelite tootearenduse puhul on oluline, et pärast esimeste näidistoodete valmimist kantaks kleite reaalselt igapäevaelus, et saada tagasisidet näiteks istuvuse ja mugavuse kohta ning saadud tagasiside põhjal mudeleid paremaks muuta.

Now a days people don’t value the emotional connection related to their clothes and consume chaep fast fashion. On average people only use 20% of their wardrbobe and 90% of the clothes are thrown away before the end of their life cycle. Because fast fashion changes rapidly and is relatively cheap, it makes consumers feel the need to buy new clothes to keep up with fashion trends. Consumers should only acquire items that will last for a long time and are also willing to wear them until the end of their natural life cycle. For example folk costumes were worn at formal occasions and were inherited from generation to generation. Beacuse they are well looked after, there are families that have inherited folk costumes from their ancestors and wear them with pride to, for example, the song and dance festival. Alternative to the fast fashion is slow fashion. Someone who practises this in Estonia is Marit Ilison. She also has self-named studio called Marit Ilison Creative Atelier. The atelier represents fashion brands Longing For Sleep and Black Heart that are created by Marit herself. All this is represented by the company Supermoon OÜ what is founded by Marit and Peeter Ilison. It is important to Marit to use skin friendly and mainly natural fabrics, as well as to make timeless styles that consumers can also order from older collections. As a result of this thesis two dress styles were developed for the 2020 capsule collections in collaboration with Marit Ilison for the company Supermoon OÜ. These developed dress styles are named DR62 ja DR63. They are base styles that were created by following the unification principles. Customers can choose to combine torso front and back, skirt and sleeves details with each other to make new variations. There are six different variations with these developed styles when combining base style details. The development of the dress styles began with the collection sketches made by Marit Ilison, from which the two styles DR62 and DR63 were selected to continue with. According to the style of the dresses, the basic pattern for the dress and for the one-piece sleeve was chosen, following the methodology of M. Müller & Sohn pattern construction. The basic patterns for body and sleeve were drafted by hand for basic size IT42, which corresponds to a chest circumference of 92 cm. The first mock-up to check the fit of the basic pattern was made. After that, the patterns were digitalized in the computer program Optitex PDS 18, where base patterns were also made that the unification is based on. Also a second fitting took place to check the fit of the base patterns and the achievement of the desired style. The pattern grading was also made using the programm Optitex PDS 18, as a result of this the size numbers IT38-IT48 were made based on a base size IT42. For sizes IT38 and IT48, combined marker planning for every used fabric was made using programm Marker 18 to find the average fabric consumption per product and also average efficiency of fabric usage. The average efficiency of fabric usage for the main fabric A was 83,6% and for the main fabric B 84,2%. The main fabric for sewing the products was 100% viscose crepe that featured digital textile printed pattern designed by Marit Ilison. At the moment digital textile printing is the most environmentally sustainable printing technology for natural fiber fabrics that there is on the market. Digital textile printing generates less waste in its process and uses less water than, for example, screen printing or rotary printing. The fabric used is from the archives of Marit Ilison Creative Atelier 2017 collection II stock. Using materials in such a way is one of the sustainable principles that is followed in Marit Ilison Creative Ateliers everyday work. The dress styles DR62 and DR63, which have been sewn as part of the thesis, are samples for the company, and are being used in further product development. In the product development of new dress models, it is important that after the completion of the first samples, they are actually worn in everyday life in order to receive feedback on their comfort and fit. The received feedback will be used to improve the styles.