Toiger, MerikeRaska, Kaisa2021-03-172021-03-172014https://dspace.tktk.ee/handle/20.500.12863/907Tekstiil- ja rõivatööstus on mitmekesine tööstusharu, mis hõlmab arvukaid tegevusi alates sellest, kuidas kiududest saab niit ja kangas, kuni mitmesuguste toodete valmistamiseni, nt kõrgtehnoloogilised sünteetilised niidid, rõivad, tööstuslikud filtrid jne. See sektor moodustab olulise osa Euroopa töötlevast töötlusest ning sel on oluline roll paljude Euroopa riikide majanduses ja sotsiaalse heaolu loomisel. Rõivatööstuses on oodata seniste arengute jätkumist, viimastel aastatel hoogsalt vähenenud tööhõive kahaneb ka tulevikus. Rõivatoodete tootmisega tegeles aastatel 2007 - 2009 keskmiselt 11,3 tuhat töötajat. Prognoosi kohaselt on rõivatööstuses 2017. aastaks oodata töökohtade vähendamist 2,4 tuhande võrra. Suur probleem tööstussektoris on tööjõupuudus, mis on tingitud madalast palgast. Keskmine palk moodustab vaevalt üle poole Eesti keskmisest, mis omakorda muudab kvaliteetse tööjõu leidmise keerukaks. Selline palgatase ei ole atraktiivne tööturule suunduvale noorele, hoolimata asjaolust, et noorte tööpuudus on jätkuvalt kõrgel tasemel. Teine suur probleem on nõudluse vähenemine. Rõivatööstuse toodangumaht moodustas 2010. aasta esimesel poolel vaevalt poole mõne aasta taguste tasemetega võrreldes. Vähenenud on nii eksport kui müük siseturule. Arvestades vähest muutust jaemüügis tervikuna, võib eeldada, et inimesed on eelistanud odavamaid, enamjaolt Aasias valmistatud tooteid. Konkurentsis püsimine on muutunud üha raskemaks ning sellest tulenevalt on nii mõnedki rõivatööstused otsustanud oma toodangut tellida allhankena odavama tööjõukuluga riikidest. Käesolevas lõputöös on püstitatud kaks eesmärki: • leida sobivad kangad kohvik Rannapaargu klienditeenindajate vormiriiete valmistamiseks; • projekteerida kolme mudeli tootmisprotsess õmblusliinis. Rannapaargu on 1971. aastal Kärdla supelranna lähedusse ehitatud kohvik, mis on kujunenud üheks Hiiumaa sümboliks. Ettevõte väärtustab nii toidu kui ka teeninduse poolelt peamiselt kvaliteeti ning loodab külastajatele pakkuda uusi ja elamusrikkaid kogemusi. Kõige tähtsamal kohal on aga kohviku kollektiiv, kellest positiivne elamus klientidele alguse saab. Sellest tulenevalt on oluline mitte ainult töörõivaste esteetiline välimus, vaid ka klienditeenindajate heaolu rõivastust kandes. Õmblusliini projekteerimise aluseks on võetud tellitud mudelid ning tööliste arv ja mudelite valik põhineb kohviku juhataja nõudmistel. Kohvik Rannapaargu juhataja sooviks oli saada viis rõivaeset – seelik, püksid, pluus, vest ja põll, millest antud lõputöö koostamiseks valiti välja kolm olulisemat. Mitmetegumoelises tehnoloogilises protsessis toodetakse naiste pluusi mudelit „Merilin“, naiste vesti mudelit „Herta” ning põlle mudelit „Anett”. Lepiti kokku naiselikul ja formaalsel punase-musta värvikombinatsioonil. Kõikide rõivaesemete puhul on oluline sobivus paljudele erinevatele figuuritüüpidele ning universaalne ja ajatu tegumood, mis mõjuks kohviku interjööris sümpaatselt. Antud tehnoloogilisest protsessist võtab osa 7 töölist ning väljalaske suurus on 27 pluusi, 13 vesti ning 13 põlle. Töö käigus tuuakse välja kohvik Rannapaargu klienditeenindajate töörõivaste valmistamiseks valitud kangaste sobivus, mis põhineb materjalide testimisel. Sooritatud on viis testi, välja on toodud nende eesmärgid, sooritamise käik ning tulemuste analüüs. Järgnevalt on kirjeldatud antud mudelite tootmiseks sobivaid protsesse, välja on toodud tööjaotused ja nende analüüsid, koostatud on tehnoloogiline skeem ning seda on analüüsitud tabelite ja graafikute abil, läbi on viidud tellimuste arvutused ja kirjeldatud antud protsessi sisetransporti. Töös käsitletakse ka majanduslikku poolt, kus on arvutatud mudelite õmblusmaterjalide kulu, põhi- ja abimaterjalide maksumus ning kujundatud on toodete hind. Tööle on lisatud mudelite tootmiseks sobiv õmblustsehhi plaan koos seadmete paigutusega, vesti valmistamise skeem ning mudelite paigutusjoonised. Lõputöö on valminud koostöös Tallinna Tehnikakõrgkooli Rõiva- ja Tekstiiliteaduskonna tehnilise disaini eriala diplomandi Tea Tüüriga, kelle lõputöö “Kohvik Rannapaargu klienditeenindajate töörõivastuse välja töötamine” sisaldab mudelite kavandamist, konstruktsiooni ja tehnoloogiat, õmblusmaterjalide kulu normeerimist, mudelite tehnilist dokumentatsiooni ning majanduslikku osa.The textile and clothing industry is a diverse industry that involves many different components starting from how to turn raw materials into yarn and fabric to the many different clothing items manufactured and their production processes. The production of high-tech synthetic yarns, clothing, filters and other material, plays a significant part of manufacturing productivity, as well as, playing an important role in the economies and welfare of many European countries. There are two big problems in the manufacturing industry. One challenge is labor scarcity, which is caused by low salaries. The average salary for a textile worker is approximately half of the average salary for an Estonian worker. This is turn makes it difficult to develop a high-quality workforce. Despite the fact that youth unemployment is at a high level, the manufacturing industry has not attracted young people to join the labor market. The other challenge in the manufacturing industry is a decrease in demand. Garment industry production volume in the first sector of 2010 dropped to 50% compared to production volumes from a previous years. The decrease in production has effected both export and domestic sales. Given the lack of change in the retail trade as a whole, it can be assumed that people are preferring cheaper, mostly Asian-made products. Remaining competitive in the industry has become increasingly difficult. Due to this competition, quite a few clothing manufacturers have decided to outsource its production to countries with cheaper labor costs. This thesis, named “Organizing the Technological Process of Cafe Uniforms for Waitresses”, will address the following topics: • Finding suitable fabrics to sew work uniforms for the waitresses in cafe Rannapaargu • Organizing the sewing production process for three separate models of clothing Rannapaargu is a café located along the cost of Hiiumaa in the city called Kärdla. It was built in 1971 and has become one the symbols of Hiiumaa. The company periodically evaluates quality in both the food and the service side and hopes to offer new and rich experiences to their customers. The most important role nevertheless has its collective, where the positive experience starts from. Since the customer’s impression of the café is significantly impacted by staff, it is very important that the workers have uniforms that look aesthetically pleasing and also that the workers feel comfortable wearing them. Organizing the sewing line is based on the models ordered and the number of textile workers. The café manager decides which model to order for the staff. In this study the manager of café Rannapaargu wanted to order five clothing items which included skirt, pants, blouse, vest and apron. The manager denoted within the order paperwork that the three most important clothing items were the women’s blouse model “Merilin”, the vest model “Herta” and the apron model “Anett”. It was agreed that the models should be feminine, formal and that they would include a colour combination of red and black. It was important that the models are suitable for many different figure types of women’s figures. In addition the models must be universally acceptable and have a timeless style that fits with the café interior. There are 7 workers who take part of that technological process and the size of the final order was 27 blouses, 13 vests and 13 aprons. During the production of the clothing order it was important to find the right fabrics for the uniforms. Before a final fabric selection could be made, chosen fabrics needed to be tested in the laboratory. Fabric testing included five different tests on five basic materials chosen for the uniforms, their purposes and analysis of the results. During the testing it turned out that two fabrics have really bad qualities and they were not suitable for sewing the uniforms. One of the materials for blouse had very poor of colour fastness and the material for the vest lining was not as durable as it should have been. These are both significant qualities for workwear and based on the testing it was decided to choose other more suitable fabrics. Once suitable fabrics had been chosen it was time to move on to the appropriate processes for the production of the uniforms. In this thesis are shown the division of labor and its analysis, as well as, the technological scheme which is also analysed through tables and graphs. There is also a brief introduction to the internal transportation of the production line. The sewing line was organized so that the operations ran smoothly and efficiently. The production was logical, eliminated extra steps and meaningless movements. Despite the limited number of workers producing the uniforms, the production line was well balanced. There is a brief financial analysis included within the thesis. Here you will find the calculated need for the materials, the cost of basic and auxiliary materials and the final prices for the three models of uniforms. Also included within the thesis you will find a suitable layout drawing of the production line, with the layout of the sewing machines, the manufacturing layout of the vest and the pattern layout drawings for the three models. This thesis is written in cooperation with Tea Tüür, who is a graduate in TTK University of Applied Sciences and who specializes in the Technical Desing of Apparel. Her thesis named “The Development of Workwear for Cafe Rannapaargu” includes models planning, constructions and technology, calculations of sewing materials, technical doocumentation and financial analysis.Clothing and Textiles--Technology and Textile Science--Product Management in Sewing IndustryClothing and Textiles--Technology and Textile Science--Sewing TechnologyClothing and Textiles--Technology and Textile Science--Testing of Textile MaterialsRõivad ja tekstiilid--Tehnoloogia ja materjaliõpetus--Juurdelõikuse ja õmblustootmise töökorraldusRõivad ja tekstiilid--Tehnoloogia ja materjaliõpetus--ÕmblustehnoloogiaRõivad ja tekstiilid--Tehnoloogia ja materjaliõpetus--Tekstiilimaterjalide testimineRõivaste tehniline disainTechnical Design of Apparelthesis