Kuusk , MargitMesila, Margerite2025-01-172025-01-172025-01-08https://dspace.tktk.ee/handle/20.500.12863/5548Lõputöö eesmärk oli valmistada rahvuslik väikepartiidena toodetavate ülerõivaste püsikollektsioon, mida vajadusel saaks ka üksiktoodetena toota. Töö käigus valmisid voodrile töödeldud jakk ja mantel, mille loomisprotsessi ja tehnoloogia väljatöötamist on antud töös kirjeldatud. Töö valmis koostöös ettevõtetega Happytex OÜ ja Melvin OÜ. Happytex OÜ põhitegevus on rahvariiete koolituste läbiviimine, rahvariiete ning kergete ja ülerõivaste valmistamine individuaaltellimustena nii naistele kui ka meestele. Melvin OÜ pakub rõivaste tootearenduse teenust ning teeb koostööd rahvusvaheliste firmadega Soomest, Rootsist, Norrast, Lätist jm. Kollektsiooni kavandamise märksõnadeks olid jätkusuutlikkus, kvaliteetsete ja looduslike materjalide kasutamine ja rahvuslikkus. Inspiratsiooni allikaks valiti Lääne-Saaremaa rahvarõivad, ennekõike ülerõivad, sest seal on juured nii ettevõtte Happytex OÜ juhatajal kui töö autoril. Ideid koguti veebiallikatest, raamatutest ja külastati ka Eesti Rahva Muuseumi. Vaadati ja analüüsiti Lääne-Saaremaa meeste vatte, pikk-kuubesid ja veste, naiste liistikuid ja kuubesid. Värvigammaks valiti piirkonna enim kasutatavad seelikuvärvid: punane, must, tumesinine. Toodete põhilõiked on konstrueeritud põhjamaade konstrueerimissüsteemi järgi. Nendest on valmistatud moekohased lõiked mudelitele „Madli“ ja „Maali“, mis on tehtud unifitseerimise teel, kuid materjalide paksuste erinevuste tõttu on kasutatud erinevat töötlust liimikangaga. Tehnoloogia on suuremalt jaolt toodetel sama. Väikepartii tootmiseks tehti toodetele suuruses 34-44 tehniline paljundus su, mille põhimõtted on esitatud jaki näitel. Mantli paljundus käib samade reeglite järgi, sest mantli lõiked on tehtud jaki lõigete põhjal. Mõlemad tooted on voodriga. Kõik lekaalid on joonistena välja toodud. Pihaosa lekaalid on toodetel ühesugused. Mudelite materjalide paksuste erinevuste tõttu on dubleeri lekaalid erinevad. Kuluarvestuseks tehti kanga paigutusjoonised nii ühe kui ka kahe toote kaupa. Töös on näidatud kombineeritud joonised. Arvutati välja niidi- ja abimaterjalide kulu, lisati näidisele kulunud töötlemise hind ja muud kulud. Jaki hinnaks kujunes 373,45 € ja mantli hinnaks 516,36 €.The aim of this graduation thesis „Women's Outerwear Collection Inspired by Folk Costumes from Saaremaa“ was to create a permanent collection of outerwear produced in small batches which can also be manufactured as individual items when needed. During the process a jacket and a coat with lining were created and the creation process and technology development are described in this thesis. The work was carried out in collaboration with the companies Happytex OÜ and Melvin OÜ. Happytex OÜ's main activities include conducting Estonian traditional costume training, as well as producing clothing to individual orders for both women and men. Melvin OÜ offers clothing product development services and collaborates with international companies from Finland, Sweden, Norway, Latvia and others. The key concepts for designing the collection were sustainability, the use of high-quality natural materials and ethnical characteristics. The inspiration was drawn from the traditional costumes of Western Saaremaa, particularly outerwear, as both the director of Happytex OÜ and the author of this work have roots in this region. Ideas were gathered from online sources, books and a visit to the Estonian National Museum. Western Saaremaa men's and women’s coats and vests were examined and analyzed. The color palette was based on the most commonly used skirt colors in the region: red, black and dark blue. The pieces were constructed using the Nordic pattern-making system. Patterns for the “Madli” and “Maali” models were created based on standardization and modeled according to the design. Due to differences in fabric thicknesses, various processing techniques with fusible fabric were applied. The technology used is mostly the same for both products. For small-batch production, grading was made for sizes 34-44, with the principles illustrated using the jacket as an example. The coat’s grading follows the same rules, as its patterns are derived from the jacket’s patterns. Both products are lined. All patterns are presented as drawings. The waist area patterns are identical for both products. Due to differences in material thicknesses, the interfacing patterns vary. For cost estimation, fabric layout plans were created for both individual products and combinations of two products. Combined drawings are shown in the thesis. The thread and auxiliary material consumption were calculated and the processing cost of the samples and other expenses were added. The cost of the jacket was €373.45 and the cost of the coat was €516.36.etRõivad ja tekstiilidRõivaste tehniline disain (moetööstus)lõputöö