Digitrüki kvaliteedi hindamine trikookangal Helg brändi näitel

Lõputöö eesmärk oli leida Helg brändile sobivaim digitrüki lahendus, mis vastaks nii klientide ootustele kui ka ettevõtte nõuetele ning vajadustele. Helg soovib tulevikus luua kollektsiooni, milles kujundused asuvad vaid otsetrükina toodete esipaneelidel. DTG trükki pakkuvad ettevõtted kaardistati ning leiti sobivaimad, mis vastasid Helgi poolt ette antud nõuetele. Ettevõtteid kellele päring esitati oli kokku 9, nendest 3 ei vastanudki päringule. Kahest ettevõttest ei olnud võimalik näidiseid tellida kuna trüki hind oli liiga kallis. Ühel ettevõttel oli lõputöö kirjutamise ajal puhkus, seega ei olnud ka sealt võimalik trükki tellida. Kokku telliti näidised kolmest ettevõttest. Kõik DTG näidised telliti kujundusega „Jussike“. Kõikidele ettevõtetele saadeti fail nende soovitud formaadis. Helg põhimaterjal, millele trükki sooviti, on puuvillane trikotaaž (95% puuvill, 5% elastaan). Kõik ettevõtted trüki teostamiseks ühesugused kanganäidised. Trüki suurus oli 15x20cm. Ettevõtte jaoks on oluline digitrüki kvaliteedi hindamisel kaubanduslik välimus, vastupidavus hõõrdumisele ning värvipüsivus. Kaubandusliku välimuse hindamisel oli kaasatud ettevõtte tegevjuht, kes vaatas ka ise, millised tellitud DTG trükkidest oleksid sobivaimad. Lisaks kolme ettevõtte trükkidele võeti hindamiseks ka Helgis praegu kasutusel olev trükitud kujundus ning TTK Minifactorys trükitud kujundus. Kõik testid sooritati lähtuvalt standarditest. Testiti trükkide vastupidavust hõõrdumisele, värvipüsivust pesemisel ning värvipüsivust hõõrdumisel. Kõik testid viidi läbi Tallinna Tehnikakõrgkooli tekstiilmaterjalide testimise laboris. Vastupidavus hõõrdumisele oli oluline, kuna tegemist on toodetega, mida kannavad eelkõige beebid ning väikelapsed. Mõlema puhul on rõivastel palju hõõrdumist, kuna lapsed on nii süles, kui ka roomavad. Oluline on, et laste kantud tooted oleksid kaubandusliiku välimusega ka peale pikaaegset kasutust ning hooldamist. Värvipüsivust hinnati nii pesemisel kui ka hõõrdumisel. Kuna hetkel kasutusel oleva trükitehnoloogiaga kangad kuluvad pestes kiiresti, oli see oluline aspekt mida testida. Väikelaste rõivaste puhul peab kangas vastu pidama tihedatele pesukordadele, kuna rõivad võivad määrduda tavapärasest kiiremini. Kõikide testide tulemused kajastati tabelitena ning tehti neist järeldused. Helgi jaoks pakkus kõige sobivamat lahendust ettevõte F. Võttes arvesse ettevõtte F hinna-ning kvaliteediaspekte, oli eelis teiste ettevõtete ees silmnähtav. Juhul kui trükkida 10 toodet, on hind toote kohta ettevõtte A trükiga võrreldes 50% soodsam. Lisaks oli ettevõttel F ka kõige kiirem teenus, üks tööpäev. Teistes ettevõtetes läks trüki valmimiseks aega 2-6 tööpäeva. Ettevõtte F trükk vastas kõige enam ettevõtte ootustele visuaalse poole pealt, sest värvid olid selged ning erksad ja trükk oli ühtlane. Tulemusi võrreldi praegu kasutusel oleva trükiga, mis on on peale tavalist hooldust mõnevõrra kulunud. Testid otseselt ei näidanud, et praegu kasutusel olev trükk kuluks kergesti, kuid ettevõtte F tulemused oli mõnevõrra paremad. Värvipüsivuse testil hõõrdumisele oli trükk samuti vastupidav. Kokkuvõttes võib öelda, et kõiki kvaliteediaspekte arvestades on ettevõtte F trükk Helgile sobiv alternatiiv olemasolevale trükimeetodile.

The aim of the thesis Evaluation of the Quality of Digital Printing on Knitted Fabric on the Example of Helg Brand was to find the most suitable digital printing solution for Helg brand, which would meet the expectations of the customers as well as the requirements and needs of the company. In the future, Helg wants to create a collection, in which the designs are only directly printed on the front panels of the products. The companies offering DTG printing were mapped out and the most suitable ones were found that met the requirements given by Helg. There were a total of 9 companies to which the inquiry was submitted, of which 3 did not respond to the inquiry. It was not possible to order samples from two companies because the price of the print was too high. One company had a holiday while writing the thesis, so it was not possible to order the print from there either. In total, samples were ordered from three companies. All DTG samples were ordered with the "Jussike" design. All companies were sent a file in their desired format. The main material, on which the print was requested, is cotton tricot (95% cotton, 5% elastane). All companies used the same fabric samples for printing. The size of the print was 15x20cm. The research questions presented in the thesis were answered. The research questions presented were:

1. What is important to Helg brand when evaluating the quality of digital printing?
2. Which manufacturer offers the most suitable solution for Helg, considering price and quality criteria? Commercial appearance, abrasion resistance and color fastness are important for the company when evaluating the quality of digital printing. The company's CEO was involved in evaluating the commercial appearance, and she checked which of the ordered DTG prints would be the most suitable for her brand. In addition to the prints of the three companies, the printed design currently used in Helg and the design printed in the TTK Minifactory were also evaluated and tested. All tests were performed according to standards. The resistance of prints to abrasion, color fastness to washing and color fastness to rubbing were tested. All tests were performed in the textile materials testing laboratory of Tallinn University of Applied Sciences. Resistance to friction was important, as these are products that are primarily worn by babies and small children. In both cases, there is a lot of friction on the clothes as the babies are both on people’s laps and crawling. It is important that the products worn by children have a commercial appearance even after long-term use and care. Color fastness was assessed both to washing and rubbing. Since fabrics with the currently used printing technology wear out quickly when washed, this was an important aspect to test. In the case of toddler clothes, the fabric must withstand frequent washes, as the clothes may get dirty faster than usual. The results of all tests were presented in tables and conclusions were drawn from them. Company F offered the most suitable solution for Helg. Taking into account the price and quality aspects of company F, the advantage over other companies was obvious. If you print 10 products, the price per product is 50% cheaper compared to company A's printing. In addition, Company F also had the fastest service, one business day. In other companies, it took 2-6 working days to complete the print. Visually, Company F's print had the best commercial appearance. The colors were clear and vivid and the print was consistent. The result was good to compare with the print currently in use, which is somewhat worn after normal maintenance. The tests did not directly show that the print currently in use would wear easily, but Company F's results were somewhat better. In the color fastness to rubbing test, the print was also durable. In summary, it can be said that considering all aspects of quality, company F's printing for Helg is a suitable alternative to the existing printing method.