Naiste ülerõivaste väljatöötlemine ettevõttes Protex Balti AS

Käesoleva lõputöö eesmärk oli tootja ja rõivabrändi Nomen Nescioga koostööl arendada välja kaks uut mantli mudelit. Töös tutvustati nii õmblusettevõtet Protex Balti AS kui disainistuudiot Nomen Nesciot. Uuriti tootja ülerõivaste tootmisvõimalusi ning tutvustati rõivabrändi ja selle tooteid. Lõputöö raames valminud näidised on üks osa Nomen Nescio ettevalmistusest 2025. aasta kevad kollektsiooniks. Valminud näidised saadetakse kliendile, kes jätkab mudelitega töötamist. Näidistele tehakse kandmistestid, pildistatakse need üles, vaadatakse kuidas üks või teine mudel sobiks juba olemasoleva tootevalikuga. Antud mudelite loomisel võeti arvesse Nomen Nescio unikaalset käekirja, kuid pakuti tootevalikusse ka uusi elemente nagu raglaanvarrukad, vööjoonel nöörtunnel, reväärkrae, pagunid ja põõnad. Nagu Nomen Nesciole omane on mõlemad mudelid musta värvi. Nomen Nescio puhul võib öelda, et kuigi värv on pea alati must siis erinevate kangaste tekstuuridega on nad altid katsetama. See teeb asja huvitamaks ja loob põnevaid kombineerimis võimalusi kihilisele rõivastusele. Töö käigus külastati erinevaid kangamüüjaid, käidi kohtumas teppimisteenust pakkuva Marcon Holdinguga ja tutvuti abimaterjalide tootjatega. Tepitud mantlile tõmbluku valimise käigus sai kuulda ja uurida, mille uuega on turule tuldud. Mudelid konstrueeriti kahel erineva konstrueerimismeetodiga. Trench coat konstrueeriti Mülleri ja Tepitud mantel Aldrichi süsteemi järgi. Lõigete konstrueerimisel ja modelleerimisel tugineti moejoonistele - ja tehnilistele joonistele. Toimusid istuvusproovid ja makettide õmblemised, kus kontrolliti lõigete õigsust. Kinnitatud lõiked digitaliseeriti Lectra Modarise programmi, kus valmisid lekaalid ja lekaalide paljundused suurustele S-XXL. Mantlitele tehti materjalide paigutusjoonised, saadi kanga- ja abimaterjalide kulunormid ning koos ligikaudsete õmblusaegadega sai arvutatud tootja müügihind. Saadud hinnad on orienteeruvad kuna ettevõtte hinnakujundus on konfidentsiaalne. Trench coati tootmishinnaks kujunes 134,7€ ja Tepitud mantlil 103,3€. Lõpliku müügihinna kujundamine jäeti rõivabrändile endale, kuid uurides kodulehte siis võib Trench coati hind jääda 600-700€ ja tepitud mantli hind 400-500€ vahemikku. Kui kliendile esialgsed näidised sobivad, saab tootmisega alustada. Muutuste korral jätkatakse näidiste protsessiga.

The aim of this graduation thesis Womens Outerwear Development in the Company Protex Balti AS is to develop and sew two new outerwear prototypes for clothing brand Nomen Nescio. It was done in cooperation with a sewing manufacturer Protex Balti AS. The samples produced are part of Nomen Nescio preparations for the spring 2025 collection. In the course of the work, the production possibilities of the manufacturer's outerwear were investigated. A SWOT analysis was made to determine if Protex Balti AS has the means to produce such products. During the analysis, strengths, opportunities as well as weaknesses and threats were identified. The end result showed that the strengths outweighed the weaknesses, therefore a conclusion was made that Protex Balti AS has a lot of potential in outerwear production. Nomen Nescio focuses on minimalist aesthetics. In addition to that the brand does not follow trends and makes garments mostly in the color black. First the existing product selection was studied and analyzed. The goal was to offer new models and new elements that could be introduced into the Nomen Nescio product range. Fashion drawings were prepared. Two models were selected for which technical drawings were made. Trench coat was chosen as the first model for product development because it was absent from Nomen Nescio's product selecton. The choice of the second model was determined by the quilted fabric. In the Nomen Nescio product range, the assortment of products made of quilted fabric is very small. It was suggested to offer an addition to the existing ones. The Trench coat basic construction was designed according to the Müller system and quilted coat was constructed by Aldrich system. Fashionable patterns were modeled after fashion and technical drawings. There were fitting tests, pattern adjustments and the confirmed patterns were digitized into the Lectra Modaris patternmaking software. Pattern gradings for sizes S-XXL were made and size S sample was sewn for both coats. The material layout drawings and ready-made garment measurements charts were made. For coats, fabric and accessories materials consumptions and estimated production cost per unit were calculated with the manufacturers production prices. The received product prices are indicative as the manufacturer`s pricing mechanism is confidential. It was left up to the clothing brand to calculate the final selling price, but looking at the prices on their website, and comparing them with products belonging to the same group, the price of a Trench coat in the store can be between 600-700€ and a quilted coat between 400-500€. If the initial samples are suitable for the Nomen Nescio, production can begin. In case of changes the process will continue with additional samples.