Trikotaažrõivaste loomine ettevõttele Horveit OÜ. Kevad/suvi 2023

Antud lõputöö tulemuseks on kolm kootud toodet – kampsun, püksid ja kleit. Kampsunit saab kombineerida pükstega või kanda koos kleidiga. Kõik kolm toodet on mustriga. Analüüs oli esimene samm kollektsiooni loomisel. Oli tehtud brändi ja selle sortimendi analüüs, tuvastatud tugevused ja nõrkused. Peale seda tehti moejoonised ja moejooniste põhjal tehti tehnilisi jooniseid ja kirjeldusi. Lõputöö autor tehniliste jooniste põhjal konstrueeris baaslõikeid kasutades inglise konstrueerimissüsteemi. Samuti töö käigus koostati figuuri mõõdutabeli suurustega S kuni XL, et edaspidi sellest juhinduda. Kõik baaslõiked on konstrueeritud S suuruses toodetele. Kampsuni baaslõike tehti mitu suurust suurem kui kleit, et kampsun oleks avar, kuid valmistoode ikka sobib S suurusele. Üks olulisemaid protsesse töös oli kindlaks teha, millist kudumise tüüpi toodete jaoks kasutada ja kuidas töödelda mustri pahemat poolt. Kampsunil ja pükstel on üks ja sama kudumisviis, aga kleidi puhul otsustati, et kudumine peab erineda. Kleidi sobiv kudumine saavutati alles pärast paari proovi. Oluline oli see, et kleidi soonik kudumine hästi välja näeks ja et triibud ei oleks liiga laiad ega liiga kitsad. Kampsuni sinise ülaosa kudumisel pidi ka mitu katset tegema. Esialgu kooti kampsuni ülaosa kahest lõngast, ülejäänud kampsun ega kolmest. Seetõttu oli tiheduse erinevus märgatav ja see mõjus toode kvaliteedi. Kogu toode otsustati kududa kolmest lõngast. Lõngaks tuli puuvilla ja lina segu, mis valiti kevad-suvisest hooajast lähtuvalt. Baaslõigete põhjal tehti moekohased lõiked ning seejärel kooti esimesed näidistooted. Esimeste provide põhjal tehti lõigetel kohandusi. Samuti tuvastati problem, et kangas venib oma raskuse all, mistõttu osutusid sügavaks käeaugukaared ja istmikukaar. Neid tuli vähendada. Paljundamiseks valiti koordinaatmeetod. Lekaalide paljundamine tehti mõõdutabeli alusel, kus rinna-, vöö- ja puusaümbermõõtude vahe suurusest suuruseni on 8,0cm. Kuna silmkoeline kangas hästi venib, võib suuruste vahe olla suurem, kui tavalisest kangast valmistatud toodetel. Raskusi olid tekkinud ka osas, kus esitatakse läbilõikejooniste skeemid. Pidi kasutada lisaabi ma materjale, et veenduda, et kaheniidiline keteldusmasin teeb kaheniidilist ahelpistet 401. Töö lõpuosas esitas autor andmed toote müügihinda arvutamiseks koguselises väärtuses. Ettevõtte otsustas, et toodete omahind on konfidentsiaalne info ja võib esitada ainult müüguhinda. Kampsuni müügihind on 59€, pükste müüguhind on 52€ ja kleidi müüguhind on 95€. Vaatamata sellele, et kleidi lõnga kulu on umbes sama suur kui kampsunil, on kleidi müügihind palju kõrgem. See on tingitud sellest, et kleit on Half-Fashioned toode ja peaaegu kogu kleit on kokku õmmeldud keteldusmasinal ning see on üsna töömahukas ja kulukas protsess. Kampsun on õmmeldud lihtühendusõmblusmasinal ja äärestusmasinal. Samuti kleit on kootud kohe lõikesse. See ka vajab eraldi programmi tegemist. Vaatamata mõningatele töö käigus tekkinud takistustele, said tooted valmis ja neid saab edaspidi tootmises kasutada. Samuti saab tooteid kududa villasest lõngast ja saada tooteid juba külmemaks hooajaks.

The result of this thesis is three knitted products – a sweater, trousers and a dress. The sweater can be worn with trousers or with a dress. All three products have a pattern. Analysis was the first step in creating a knitted collection. An analysis of the brand and its assortment was done, strengths and weaknesses were identified. After that, fashion drawings were made and then technical drawings and technical descriptions were made based on the fashion drawings. The basic constructions based on the technical drawings have been done according to English system. In addition, a size chart with sizes S to XL was made in order to be guided by in the future work. All basic constructions are designed for S size products. The basic construstion of the sweater was made several sizes larger than the dress to make the sweater loose, but the finished product still fits size S. One of the most important processes in the work was to determine what kind of knitting technique to use for the products and for the pattern. The sweater and trousers have the same knitting technique, but for the dress it was decided that the technique must be different. The proper dress knitting was achieved only after a few trials. It was important that the ribbing of the dress looked good and that the stripes were neither too wide nor too narrow. When knitting the blue part of the sweater, several attempts were also made. Initially, the top part of the sweater was knitted from two yarns, the rest of the sweater from three yarns. Therefore, the difference in density was noticeable and it affected the quality of the product. It was decided to knit the whole product from three yarns. The yarn was a mixture of cotton and linen, which was chosen based on the spring-summer season. Fashionable cuts were modeled according to the base constructions, and then the first sample products were knitted. After the first fitting, adjustments were made to the cuts. The problem was also identified that the fabric stretches under its own weight, so that is why the armhole and seat seam turned out to be deep. They had to be reduced. The coordinate method was chosen for sewing patterns grading. Sewing patterns grading was made by using a size chart, where the difference in chest, waist and hip circumferences from size to size is 8.0cm. The knitted fabric stretches well, so the difference in sizes may be larger than for products made of other fabric. There were also difficulties in the part where the seam sectional drawings are presented. The author of this thesis encountered a linking machine for the first time. It was necessary to seek additional help to be sure what type of stitch the machine does. Learned that a double thread linking machine makes double thread chain stitch 401. In the final part of the work, the author presented the data for calculating the product's selling price in quantitative value. The company decided that the cost price of the products is confidential information and can only provide the selling price. The selling price of the sweater is 59€, the selling price of the trousers is 52€ and the selling price of the dress is 95€. Despite the fact that the yarn consumption for the dress is about the same as for the sweater, the sale price of the dress is much higher. This is because the dress is a Half-Fashioned product and almost the entire dress is sewn together on a linking machine, which is quite a labour-intensive and expensive process. The sweater is sewn on a lockstitch sewing machine and an overlock. In addition, the dress is knitted straightaway according to sewing pattern. This also requires a special program. Despite some obstacles during the work, the products were completed and can be used in production in the future. The products can also be knitted from woolen yarn and get them already for the colder season.