Kostüümi loomine Rahvusooper Estonia kostüümilaenutusele

Käesoleva lõputöö tulemusena valmis Rahvusooper Estonia kostüümilaenutusele naiste 1950ndate aastate stiiis peokleit ja boolero. Toodete valmistamisel lähtuti kostüümilaenutuse poolt ette antud tingimustest. Valmistamisel saadi inspiratsiooni kostüümilaenutuse poolt ette antud kleidi fotost ja autori poolt internetist leitud ajaloolisest boolero fotost. Kostüümikomplekti valmistamisel kasutati kostüümiala kangalaos olevaid kangaid, mis olid kunagiste etenduste kostüümide valmistamisel üle jäänud, kuid mis enam kasutust ei leidnud. Kleidi põhimaterjaliks on sinine polüestrist hea drapeeruvusega õhuline kangas, mis sarnaneb kostüümilaenutuse poolt etteantud fotol olevale kleidi kangale, et saavutada fotole sarnase efektiga kleiti. Boolero põhimaterjaliks on veniv puuvilla, polüestri ja elastaani sisaldusega valge kangas, mis tagab oma venivuse tõttu kandjale mugavuse. Töö autor konstrueeris kostüümikomplekti mudelitele lõiked, valmistas neile maketid, teostas juurdelõikust, osales toodete sobivusproovides ja õmbles tooted ka valmis. Mõlemad kostüümikompekti mudelid on loodud sama põhilõike baasil. Mudelite baaslõige - kleidi põhilõige - on konstrueeritud M. Müller & Sohn konstrueerimissüsteemi kasutades suurusele 36 ja konstrueerimiseks vajalikud figuurimõõdud on saadud saksa tüüpfiguuride tabelist. Sama tabelit aluseks võttes on mudelitele loodud ka paljundusskeem suurustele 36-44. Kleidi ülemise osa esi-ja seljaosa lõiked on saadud lõike avamise ja mulaaži kombineerimise teel. Korseti, ülaosa voodri ja vöö lõiked on tuletatud kleidi põhilõikest. Kleidi seeliku paani lõiked on trapetsikujulised ja konstrueeritud vastavalt krooke suurusele vööjoonel ning samuti võttes arvesse alusseeliku pikkust. Boolero esi-ja seljaosa lõiked on tuletatud kleidi põhilõikest ja boolero varrukas kleidi varruka põhilõikest. Lõputöö koosneb kuuest peatükist, mis kirjeldavad kostüümikomplekti valmimimise protsessi. Esimene peatükk kirjeldab kostüümikomplekti kavandamist ja selle tingimusi. Teine peatükk käsitleb kostüümi mudelite välisilme kirjeldust. Kirjeldatud on mudelite valmistamisel kasutatud materjale ja abimaterjale. Kolmandas peatükis on välja toodud kõik lõigete konstrueerimisega 82 seonduv ja kostrueerimisel kasutatud metoodika kirjeldus. Töö neljas osa käsitleb toodete baassuuruses originaallekaalide valmistamist ja neile paljundusskeemide loomist. Materjalide kulude normeerimine moodustab töö viienda osa. Töö kuues peatükk käsitleb mudelite tehnoloogilist töötlemist. Mudelite kangakulu arvestamiseks loodi paigutused igale kleidi ja boolero materjalile ja seeläbi selgus, kui palju kangast kulub toodete valmistamiseks. Paigutused loodi suurusele 36, sest selles suuruses valmistati ka mudelid. Kleidi valmistamiseks kulub kokku 7,74 meetrit kangast ja boolero valmistamiseks kulub 2,47 meetrit kangast. Rahvusooper Estonia poolne juhendaja jäi kostüümikomplektiga rahule, sest valminud mudelid on kostüümilaenutuse tingimustele ja 1950ndate aastate stiilile vastavad ning need täidavad oma eesmärki kasutada ära vanu kangalattu seisma jäänud kangaid.

The purpose of this graduation thesis was to create a costume set for the Estonian National Opera’s costume rental, which consists of a ladies party dress and a bolero jacket in the style of the 1950s. The products were made according to the conditions provided by the costume rental. In the course of making the costume set, an inspiration was obtained from the photo of a 1950s dress provided by the costume rental and from the historical bolero photo found by the author on the internet. The costume set was made using fabrics found in the costume department fabric storage that were once used to make stage clothing, but were no longer used. The main fabric of the dress is a blue sheer polyester fabric with good draping qualities, which resembles to fabric of the dress on the photo. The main fabric of the bolero jacket is a white fabric with cotton, polyester and elastane composition, which ensures that it is comfortable to wear due to its stretchability. The author of the thesis constructed patterns for the models, made muslins, cut details out of the fabric, helped with fitting and sewing the final products. Both costume set models patterns are based on the same block pattern. The basic pattern of the models - block pattern of a dress - is constructed using the M. Müller & Sohn constructing system for size 36 and the figure dimensions required for construction are derived from the table of German type figures. Based on the same table, the models also have a pattern grading scheme for sizes 36-44. The front and back patterns of the upper part of the dress were made by modifying the pattern and draping it on a mannequin. The patterns of the corset, upper lining and belt are derived from the dress block pattern. The skirt panels are shaped like a trapezoid and were made according to the size of the gathering on the waistline and also taking into account the length of the petticoat. The front and back patterns for bolero are derived from the dress block pattern and the sleeve pattern from the block pattern of the dress sleeve. 84 The thesis consists of six chapters describing the process of making a costume set. The first chapter describes the planning of the costume set and its making conditions. The second chapter is a description of the appearance of the costume set models. There is also a description of used materials. The third chapter contains everything that relates to the construction of the patterns and its methods. The fourth part of the thesis describes the making of original pattern pieces and their grading scheme. Material standardization makes up the fifth part of the work. The sixth chapter of the work describes the technological processing of the models. For calculating the fabric consumption per product, markers were created for each material of the dress and bolero, and from made markers it became clear how much fabric is used to make the products. Markers were created for size 36 because the costume set was also made it that size. A total of 7.74 meters of fabric is required to make the dress and 2.47 meters of fabric is needed to make the bolero. Author’s supervisor from the Estonian National Opera was pleased with the costume set, as it met the requirements of the costume rental and the style of the 1950s, and it fulfilled its purpose of using old fabrics that had no use in the fabric storage.